Gobi - Chocolate Therapy

I have been a very happy Gobi customer over the past 1.5 years. Their desserts are in my opinion among the best in Singapore. Although their selection of cakes is limited to about 6 cakes, these are all so good that I have been happily going back to Gobi to purchase birthday cakes for my friends or even just to enjoy them over the weekend. Their main branch is located at The Central in Clarke Quay. Their kitchens are in Katong Mall, which is next door from me so I can conveniently order and pick up directly from there.

Last weekend I had a Chocolate Therapy once again. This, together with the 'Ivory Tower', remains my favourite cake. Alternate layers of chocolate sponge and chocolate mousse lay on top of a cereal crunchy base. A soft chocolate sauce wraps the whole cake, topped by a light spread of whipped cream and an extra thin chocolate wafer. Overall not too sweet and not too bitter. You will definitely love this cake unless you hate chocolate, it's as simple as that.

I highly recommend Gobi's cakes for any occasion. They are beautifully presented and boxed and they are always appreciated. The only drawback is that I have been irrevocably appointed as 'the official cake buyer' within my circle of friends.

Website: http://www.gobi.com.sg/

Chiharu

Chiharu is a new Japanese restaurant opened by Mr. Loh (who recently opened Braise, a stunning French restaurant located in Sentosa also reviewed on this blog). Given his impeccable track record I was particularly eager to try his new restaurant, and even more so this time as Japanese food is what I am into.
Chiharu is located on Bukit Timah road, next to 6th avenue. The dining room is spacious, with double height ceilings and an elevated dining area, an exposed wine cellar, a bar and a sushi counter. Soft lighting and a simple and dark decor based on wood, glass and metal create the feeling of a traditional style Japanese restaurant.
The kitchen is supervised by the ex chef of Shiro, a reputable and exclusive Japanese restaurant that closed some time ago.

After taking a look at the menu, it became obvious that their food style is plain traditional. Dishes are subdivided into the main Japanese cooking techniques (agemono, nimono, yakimono, ...) and include a fairly large variety of Japanese classics.

We started with a selection of Nigiri sushi: Shima Aji ($12), Kampachi ($10), Ika ($8), Uni ($20). Rice and fish were of good quality and well assembled. I particularly like their style of ika nigiri, as they slightly roasted the surface of the squid slice. The only negative note is the sushi soy sauce plates, which were so deep (like mini cups) that dipping your nigiri into the sauce is a real challenge (if you follow the proper protocol). I appreciate design, but it needs to be functional.

The Gyu Tataki ($45) was quite nice, if it wasn't for its price. The quantity is ridiculously small and the wagyu beef is not the best I had (I would doubt that it's actually from Japan). A dish of this size and quality would be more adequately priced at $25 at most.

The Tara Teriyaki ($15, grilled cod with teriyaki sauce) was reasonably priced and very well prepared. The fish was extremely firm, moist and perfectly flavoured. The accompanying pickles were also a nice classic touch.

The claypot dish Nasu Yanagawa ($15, aubergines in claypot with eggs) was mild but tasty. They used proper Japanese aubergines, thinly sliced to fully absorb the flavour of the broth, mixed with simmered scrambled eggs and burdock root.

The Renkon Hasami Age ($15, lotus root deep fried and stuffed with chicken mince) was well presented, served with a couple of tasty green chillies and salt on the side. The lotus root retained its crunchiness and juices, while the coating was thin and crispy. This dish is not so commonly found in Singapore (it used to be served at Shiro) and it was an interesting find.

The Kaki and azuki Yokkan was a seasonal fruit serving of excellent Japanese persimmon. The fruit was crunchy, ripe and sweet, accompanied by a couple of cubes of red bean paste, very recommended with green tea.

The most interesting dish was the Kuri Yokkan ($8), which was actually a crunchy version of the japanese tea dessert classic. Filled with bits of juicy water chestnut rather than the more rich and filling classic autumn chestnuts, it was a light and cooling way to end the meal.

The total bill including tax and service charge was $180 for 2 people (including a diet coke and green tea). It isn't cheap, but it's the sort of price you would expect for this quality of food considering that the wagyu beef alone was $45 dollars. Another consideration is their service, which needs substantial improvement when related to this price range.

Taking into account that they have opened only 2 weeks ago, I think Chiharu delivers an overall nice experience, although I expected slightly more originality in their dish selection. There was very little on the menu that was unique both in terms of products and seasonal dishes. They have experienced chefs and the potential to innovate and distinguish themselves, but I am yet to see that spark in Chiharu.

Chiharu
779 Bukit Timah Road
Tel: 6769 1929

Au Petit Salut - Set Lunch

Au Petit Salut is a chain of two French restaurants, one located at Holland Village and one at Harding Road (Dempsey Road). They have also a 'private dining' restaurant on top of the Harding Road branch for a private dining experience facing the Chef.
My lunch was at the Harding Road branch, which has a relaxed and bright 'al fresco' atmosphere. There is also an indoor dining area, with wide glass windows looking onto the surrounding patio.
There are two lunch menus, one 'executive' menu priced at $58++, and a regular menu priced at $30, which is the one we chose. The menu includes a starter, main, dessert and coffee or tea. Ice water is offered at the end of the meal.

I started with a 'Homemade duck rillette with mesclun salad and walnut dressing', which tasted like tuna-like textured flaky lean meat. Slightly on the salty side, but that's how it's supposed to be.

The 'Quail salad with Romaine lettuce, yogurt and cucumber dressing, croutons' consisted in a lightly seasoned and tender half quail laid on top of a typical Caesar-like salad. The quail was simple but nice, while the salad was a bit boring.

My main was a 'Braised beef cheeks Hungarian “Goulash-style’’, polenta and carrots'. I found this polenta style very interesting and gnummy. It is rather different from the traditional Italian style I am used to. In comparison, this is creamier and fluffier, probably smoothened by some dairy ingredients. The beef cheek was quite lean and tender with a clear and rich flavour enhanced by its red wine sauce.

The other main was a 'Oven baked sea bass fillet with fresh mixed vegetables, light herb butter emulsion'. The sea bass was superbly cooked, with a crispy surface sealing the subtle flavour of its juicy and firm meat. The foamy butter emulsion added that extra richness to the dish, while the bed of carrots and fennel slightly lacked of a distinguished flavour.

The 'Crème Brulée infused with fresh Madagascar vanilla beans ' is a classic French dessert, served in a very classic version. It was well prepared, with a visible quantity of flavoursome vanilla beans and a thin and crispy surface. The smooth flavour had quite a distinct bitter aftertaste, probably due to the caramelised surface.

I was very excited about this dessert. The '“Mont-Blanc” vanilla ice cream, chestnut purée and meringue' was absolutely phenomenal. I must warn you that this dessert is not very sweet, so in order to appreciate it, you must be someone who likes mildly sweetened desserts. I had Mont-Blanc before, and it was always extremely sweet and heavy. The intriguing thing about this version is that it's not purely a mountain of chestnut puree'. They have filled it with ice cream and topped it with whipped cream and chestnuts crumble, and more chestnuts and meringue chunks at the bottom, creating a well balanced harmony of textures.

If you like 'home style' French cuisine rather than 'Nouvelle Cuisine', Au Petit Salut is the place for you. Even if the lunch menu isn't breathtaking , it is certainly a quality meal that's excellent value for money. The bill came to a total of $70 for 2 people, including a bottle of water and charges. Au Petit Salut provides a relaxed ambiance in a superbly quiet and natural setting, accompanied by very friendly and attentive service and classic, simple and well prepared food.

Website: http://www.aupetitsalut.com/aps/aboutus.html

Dian Xiao Er - Terminal 3

The Terminal 3 branch of Diang Xiao Er opened 1 year ago and its location reinforces the "pit-stop for travellers" philosophy of this restaurant. It is rustically and traditionally decorated and subdivided into two areas with different deco. Their speciality is roasted duck. Their ducks are "Cherry Valley ducks" naturally bred off the lakeside, and they are marinated and roasted daily.

We ordered a 10 wonder herbs roasted duck. Their duck is truly unique for its flavour and texture. The meat is well marinated and flavoursome, non-fat and yet tender and juicy, served in abundant herbal sauce. The skin is paper thin and crispy, so you can have it without ingesting layers of fat. The portion we ordered is advertised for 2-4 people. However, in my opinion this is only enough for one person even if you have it with rice. This duck is so lean and tasty that you will feel like eating more of it than you would normally. The 'superior rice' served with the duck is quite fragrant and above par with other restaurants of this price range.

I highly recommend trying this restaurant if you like duck. They prepare it consistently well and you won't be disappointed.

Restaurant Website: http://www.dianxiaoer.net/

Buriani - Bologna

Should you ever happen to be visiting Bologna, you would be facing the issue of finding a good restaurant in the area. 'Cucina Emiliana', the local cuisine, is very popular across Italy with dishes such as tagliatelle, tortellini, lasagne alla bolognese. You can find these pretty much everywhere, but most likely you would end up in some touristy sort of restaurant where you are going to be served very average, disappointing food.
If you are up for something more special and adequate for a gurmet palate, I would like to recommend this restaurant which I had the pleasure of visiting during my last trip to Bologna. Ristorante Burani is not located in the city centre, and you need a car to get to the place. The location is Pieve di Cento, about 40 minutes drive from the city centre.
This restaurant has been awarded "1 fork" (on a scale of 1 to 3) by "gambero rosso", which is a very significant award within the Italian culinary scene.

As in any respectable Italian restaurant, you will be served a selection of bread specially prepared by the chef. The bread was of good quality, although not absolutely the best.

This 'zuppa di carciofi con crostini' (artichokes soup with crostini) was served for 'free'. Although I am not a big fan of artichokes, I could enjoy this thick soup because of its mild flavour. The bits of crunchy bread could either be enjoyed with their crispness or soaked into the soup.

The 'flan di polenta in zuppetta di squacquerone con porcini arrostiti' was a slightly experimental version of a very traditional combination. The polenta was a lighter and fluffier version of the real thing (a pudding made from cornflour). Squacquerone is a typical local fresh cheese, which was filtered into a thick soup to create an appetizing base for the polenta.

As a starter, I ordered the 'Insalata di mare tiepida con verza e profumo d'arancia' (tepid seafood salad with cabbage and orange scent) which was better than I anticipated. The delicate flavour of a tepid melange of seafood was enhanced by underlying leaves of savoury cabbage. A lot of attention was put in the way the cabbage was seasoned, most likely with some fish/seafood stock. A well balanced orange zest tang added a kick to an otherwise fairly standard dish.

As a first course, my friend ordered the 'tortelli di ricotta e scalogni con castagne e fonduta di pecorino' (tortelli with ricotta and spring onions with chestnuts and melted pecorino cheese). Unfortunately these disappeared from his plate so quickly that I didn't get a chance to taste them. I won't be able to provide a detailed description, but he looked very pleased with them.

I had the 'spaghetti freschi ai ricci di mare con broccoli, schiuma d'aglio e peperoncino' (homemade spaghetti with sea urchins and broccoli, garlic foam and chilly). Needless to say, this was the highlight for me as I always tend to prefer pasta and I love sea urchins. I enjoyed the irregular texture of these handmade spaghetti, which enabled them to absorb the 'sea flavour' released by the sea urchin roe.

The 'spiedo di calamari e scampi gratinati al rosmarino con zuppa tiepida di fagioli' (squid and scampi skewer with rosemary gratin and tepid bean soup) was grotesquely presented, but I interpreted it as a touch of humour from the chef. Extremely soft scampi and squid were covered by a rosemary flavoured crunchy breadcrumb layer. Crusty bits of bread with beans are a very typical Italian 'home cooking' combination, but not usually presented with seafood.

The 'filetto di ricciola scottata con zucca al sale affumicato e olio ai crostacei' (amber jack fillet with pumpkin seasoned with smoked salt and crustacean flavoured oil) was a nice creation, fresh and well cooked. I wasn't incredibly excited by this dish as it wasn't particularly innovative except for the pumpkin mash, the sweetness of which wasn't the best match with the ddelicate flavour of the fish fillet.

This 'zabaglione al mascarpone' was on the house to close the meal. A very small portion (but you wouldn't want it any larger) of egg yolks and mascarpone topped by a few bits of meringue hiding a pool of chocolate sauce. This is the perfect dessert for those who feel too full after a full meal and yet wish to close it with a sweet bite.

The 'coconut cake with banana and lime sorbet' was a great finale. In particular I liked the crispy and bitter layer of caramelized chocolate and coffee, which balances the sweetness of this rich dessert.

We ended up spending 120 Euros ($240 SGD) for two people, which is very reasonable for a restaurant of this calibre. Although it's not centrally located, any Italian food lover would not be disappointed with the quality of Buriani's food and service.

Website: http://www.ristoranteburiani.com/

Melanzane e peperoni alla griglia

This is another one of my mother's dishes, but also an Italian classic. In English it translates to grilled peppers and aubergines. It's an extremely light and healthy vegetarian starter that can be eaten at the beginning of the meal and it's particularly ideal if you have a few guests. You can serve it on a platter, or arrange the prepared vegertables on top of warm slices of bread before serving.

Start from slicing an aubergine into large 1/2 cm slices. Long aubergines are OK, but if you can find big, round ones that's even better. Consider that once cooked, aubergines shrink 2 to 3 times in size when calculating the required amount.

Next, prepare a mixture of extra virgin olive oil, salt, crushed coriander seeds, pepper, dried oregano and salt. Stir well and let the spices blend into the oil.

Brush the mixture onto the slices of aubergines on both sides and put them aside.

Heat a large hot plate and put the aubergine slices on it one by one. Turn them over when golden brown, and repeat the procedure until all the aubergines are cooked.

As you cook the aubergines, lay them on a large serving plate.

In the meantime, put 3 large red peppers into an oven heated up at 190C. Leave them into the oven until the skin is quite burnt. Turn them over a couple of times. Once the skin is uniformly burnt around the whole surface, remove them from the oven and place them into a large paper bag. Seal the bag and let the peppers rest for 10-15 minutes. This will make it easier to remove the skin later.

Slowly peel off the skin from each pepper.

Remove the seeds, lay them flat and slice them lengthwise into 1-2cm wide slices. Arrange each slice onto the same serving plate.

Once both aubergines and peppers are prepared, slice a few cloves of garlic lengthwise, and sprinkle them on top (and inbetween) the vegetables, together with a pinch of salt and a few leaves of fresh basil.

Let the vegetables rest for some time to absorb the flavours, after pouring some extra virgin olive oil directly on top.

After about 15-20 minutes, the aubergines and peppers are ready to be served. They can be eaten as they are or together with some warm Italian bread.

Spaghetti alla Bottarga

Spaghetti alla Bottarga is a traditional Italian recipe from Sardegna, a large Italian island rich in amazing recipes and products. This dish (as well as Bottarga itself) didn't use to be known to the rest of Italy up until about 10 years back. With my mother being from Sardegna, I have grown up with this dish which still remains one of my favourite pastas. Its simplicity and natural sea flavour are unbeatable. Nowadays this has even become popular aboroad, although I am not aware of any Italian restaurants that make it in Singapore, primarily because of unavailability of Bottarga itself (I might be proven wrong. If you do know of a restaurant where this is served, please let me know).

For those who haven't come across Bottarga before, it is basically made from dried grey mullet roe. The roe is treated, dried and vacuumed. It can be eaten "fresh", sliced with bread, or dried even further and grated on pasta.
If you ever travel abroad to Italy or Europe, you might want to purchase this expensive delicacy (around $250/kg) and bring it back to make pasta. It can be preserved in the fridge for 1 or 2 years, and I would say a $50 piece will make up to 20 servings.
I generally open the vacuumed seal and keep Bottarga in the fridge for at least a few months before it's dry enough to be grated for pasta. An alternative to Bottarga is Karasumi, which is the Japanese (identical) version, original from Kyushu. You can buy it pretty much at any top Japanese department store (in Japan), but I believe it's even more expensive than its Italian equivalent.

Making this pasta is relatively simple. If you mastered "aglio olio e peperoncino", you already know how to make it. The only variation is that you need to grate the bottarga beforehand and sprinkle it on the pasta once cooked and mixed with the sauce.

Let's go over this simple, delicious recipe in more detail.
Chop some parsley (as pictured) and peel a couple of cloves of garlic. Heat some extra virgin olive oil in a skillet and add the garlic (with some chilly flakes to taste). When the garlic is golden brown, remove the garlic and turn off the heat. Add half of the parsley only when the oil has cooled down, to prevent it from burning.
Grate some Bottarga on the side (as pictured, for 3 people).
Bring a large saucepan to the boil, add generous seasalt and drop the spaghetti. Mix regularly until cooked (al dente is essential for this dish), drain them retaining some of the boiling water, and combine into a serving plate with the heated oil and the rest of the parsley. Finally, sprinkle with Bottarga on top and serve immediately.

The amazing thing about this dish is that it can be cooked as "emergency food", but if well prepared it's actually a real delicacy. Not often you come across a 10 minutes preparation gourmet dish!